![]() ![]() I left the original clutch installed since the car only had 8,000 miles and I've owned it since knew and knew exactly how it's been driven. I just did the master and slave cylinders in my 93. I've been vacuum bleeding my slaves and calipers for decades on every vehicle I own so that's my go-to. I vacuum bleed the slave using a mityvac and the adapter in the pic below. Once again, open the bleeder to relieve that pressure. The pressure in the slave, even if the tranny bolts up, can also prevent the dry break coupler from being able to be connected and seated. The bell housing bolts should not start to get tight 1/4" from the tranny drawing up. You will need to open the bleed port if that is the case to let some of the fluid out. It CAN prevent the tranny from making up to the bell housing if it's super full. If the slave is pre-filled a word of warning when reassembling the tranny to the engine. If it does not look scored just make sure it has a little fluid on it before reassembly so it slides back in. I've never replaced the dry break o-ring. To those that might say you should never do that as it will fly off and get on the clutch friction surface, buy some of the grease first before making that dumb observation. I do use a small amount of distributor grease on the input shaft splines to the clutch disk. There are no lubrication steps needed other than the obvious ones. You'll have to pull the clutch to do that so. ![]() I would not skip doing the flywheel pilot bearing based on the input shaft appearing to have rubbed the slave. Nothing under the car will be harmed by soapy water. You need to be careful not to push any of that further in or you'll be pulling it all back apart to replace that seal. Soap and water would work well with the brush as well. I would clean that off using a soft bristle paint brush and very low pressure air. ![]() The metal shavings at the input shaft could have come from the ID of the slave based on the wear on the pics. Re-read that to answer your question of "should I.?" of replacing the clutch and pressure plate while you have it apart. It has been discussed in this thread the value, and cost. Fluid was changed earlier this year, doing the shifter while the tranny is out). Anything else to change out while the transmission is out (everything looks dry. I know my clutch fluid reservoir is empty it all leaked out so assuming the air to be everywhere.ħ. What is the best way way to bleed the system? I am not sure if slave replacement will come pre filled or not. When putting new slave on do I have to grease / oil anything?Ħ. Where the back of the slave cylinder meets the transmission there looks to be fine metal dust with grease (see below circled in red). Is there a way to tell how much more "life" I have left on the clutch from the pictures below (car has 22K miles)? I would hate to do this all over again if clutch is "near death".Ĥ. Does anyone change the O-Ring on clutch line coupler (circled in red below). I believe slave cylinder leak is confirmed. ![]()
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